savingsspot.co.uk There is a specific feeling that comes with scrolling through classified ads for classic British sports cars. It is a mix of nostalgia, optimism, and arguably, a mild form of madness. If you have found yourself searching for an MGB GT for sale recently, you are likely suffering from this delightful affliction. But unlike many other classic car pursuits that end in financial ruin and a pile of rust in the garage, the hunt for an MGB GT is surprisingly rational.
Often dubbed the “poor man’s Aston Martin,” the MGB GT is perhaps the most sensible entry point into the world of classic motoring in the United Kingdom. It offers the holy trinity of ownership: iconic Italian styling (courtesy of Pininfarina), robust mechanicals that can be fixed with a hammer and a spanner, and a parts supply chain better than most modern manufacturers. However, the sheer volume of cars produced between 1965 and 1980 means the market is a minefield. From pristine chrome-bumper examples to tired rubber-bumper projects, the disparity in quality is vast. This article dives deep into what you need to know before handing over your hard-earned pounds.
The Enduring Appeal of the GT
Before we look at the nuts and bolts of inspection, it is worth understanding why you are buying one. When the MGB Roadster launched in 1962, it was a hit. But the arrival of the GT in 1965 changed the landscape. It wasn’t just a Roadster with a lid; the roofline was raised, the windscreen was taller, and the addition of a hatchback boot made it genuinely practical. You could fit a week’s worth of luggage, a dog, or even two very small children in the back (though perhaps not all at once).
In today’s market, the GT offers a distinct advantage over the Roadster: usability. In the damp UK climate, a weather-tight coupe is a far more attractive proposition for year-round driving than a draughty soft-top. Furthermore, the GT’s structural rigidity is superior. The roof adds stiffness that the Roadster lacks, making for a sharper handling car through the corners of a B-road. If you are looking for an MGB GT for sale, you are looking for a car that can genuinely serve as a daily driver, even half a century after it left the Abingdon factory.
Chrome vs. Rubber: The Great Divide
When browsing listings, you will immediately notice two distinct visual styles, and this is the single biggest factor affecting price and desirability.
The Chrome Bumper Era (1965–1974)
These are the purist’s choice. They sit lower to the ground (original ride height) and feature the delicate chrome brightwork and grille that defines the classic British aesthetic. The interiors of the earlier cars—specifically those with the crackle-finish dashboard and toggle switches—are highly covetable. Generally, a chrome bumper MGB GT for sale will command a premium. They are lighter, arguably prettier, and exempt from the heavy-handed safety regulations that followed.
The Rubber Bumper Era (1974–1980)
In late 1974, US safety regulations forced MG to make drastic changes. The ride height was raised by 1.5 inches to meet headlight height requirements, and the elegant chrome was replaced by heavy polyurethane “impact bumpers” (often called “Sabrinas” in slang). For decades, these cars were shunned. However, the market has shifted.
Today, a rubber bumper GT represents incredible value. They are often significantly cheaper than their chrome counterparts. Moreover, later models (post-1976) featured improved radiator positioning, front anti-roll bars as standard, and more refined interiors. If you are on a budget, do not dismiss them. Many enthusiasts also perform “chrome conversions,” lowering the suspension and swapping the bumpers, though this is a labour-intensive job that needs to be done correctly to look right.
Bodywork: The Deal Breaker
Mechanics on an MGB are simple. The B-Series engine is an agricultural lump of iron that will run even when abused. The bodywork, however, is where your wallet can die a painful death. The MGB is a monocoque construction, meaning the body shell provides the structural strength. Rust here is not just cosmetic; it is dangerous.
When you go to view an MGB GT for sale, take a magnet and a torch. Here is your inspection checklist:
- The Sills: This is the most critical area. The sill structure on an MGB is complex, comprising an inner sill, a membrane, and an outer sill, plus the “castle rail” at the bottom. Check for bubbling paint or straight-up rot. If the sills are gone, the car’s structural integrity is compromised. A proper sill replacement is expensive because the doors must be braced to prevent the car from folding in half once the metal is cut.
- The Castle Rails: Run your hand under the car along the bottom edge of the sill. It should feel like the battlements of a castle (hence the name). If it feels flat or crunchy, it’s rotten.
- Wings and Seams: Check the seam between the rear wing and the scuttle (the panel below the windscreen). MG filled this seam with lead at the factory, but over time, cracks appear, and water gets in. Bubbles here indicate deep-seated trouble.
- Floors and Boot: Lift the carpets. Checking the footwells is standard, but also check the boot floor, especially around the fuel tank. The GT’s hatchback seal can fail, allowing water to pool in the boot unnoticed.
- Scuttle Panel: Look for rot at the base of the windscreen and around the wiper spindles. Repairing this is a nightmare as it involves removing the dashboard and glass.
Engine and Transmission: The Heart of the Matter
The 1798cc B-Series engine is robust, producing around 95bhp in early tunes. It’s not a powerhouse, but it is torquey. When starting the car from cold, listen for the tell-tale rattle of a timing chain. A little noise is normal; a lot suggests a replacement is due.
Oil Pressure: This is your best health indicator. On a cold start, the pressure should jump to 60-70 psi. Once the engine is hot and idling, it should not drop below 40-50 psi. If you see the needle hovering near 20 psi at idle, the bearings are tired. It might run for another 10,000 miles like that, but it will need a rebuild eventually.
Overdrive: This is a crucial feature for modern driving. The standard four-speed gearbox is fine for B-roads, but without overdrive, the engine screams at 70mph on the motorway. Overdrive (usually a switch on the dashboard or gear knob) drops the revs significantly in 3rd and 4th gear. When viewing an MGB GT for sale, check if it has overdrive and, more importantly, if it engages. It should click in and out smoothly. A car without overdrive is worth less and is far more tiring to drive long distances.
Unleaded Conversions: Ask the seller if the cylinder head has been converted for unleaded fuel. If not, you will need to use a fuel additive or budget for a head conversion later. It’s not a deal-breaker, but it is a bargaining chip.
Suspension and Steering
The MGB uses a lever-arm damper system which is archaic by modern standards but effective when maintained. Bounce the corners of the car. It should settle instantly. If it keeps bouncing, the dampers are shot.
Kingpins: The front suspension relies on kingpins. Jack up the front of the car and rock the wheel top to bottom. If there is play, the kingpins or bushes are worn. This is a common MOT failure point.
Steering Weight: The steering should be heavy at parking speeds—there is no power assistance (unless an aftermarket electric kit has been fitted, which is a popular upgrade). However, once moving, it should be precise. If it feels vague or wanders, check the steering rack gaiters and track rod ends.
Interior and Electrics
Joseph Lucas, affectionately known as the “Prince of Darkness,” supplied the electrics for the MGB. Consequently, electrical gremlins are par for the course. Check every switch. Do the wipers work? Does the heater blower function? The heater matrix is notorious for getting clogged or leaking into the cabin.
Interior condition varies wildly. Replacement seat covers, carpets, and door cards are all readily available and relatively cheap. Therefore, a tatty interior shouldn’t put you off a solid car. In fact, a worn interior in a structurally sound car is the perfect scenario for a buyer looking to add value. However, a cracked dashboard is harder to fix, particularly on the later plastic-dash models.
The V8 Factor
We cannot discuss the MGB GT without mentioning the V8. Between 1973 and 1976, MG produced the factory V8 GT, using the Rover 3.5-litre aluminium engine. These are rare, fast, and expensive.
However, you will frequently see “V8 Conversions” for sale. These are standard GTs that have had a V8 dropped in later. A well-executed conversion (look for names like Costello) can be a magnificent car, offering 140mph performance with a lazy, burbling soundtrack. But a bad conversion is a death trap. If you are looking at a V8 conversion, inspect the workmanship of the engine mounts, the cooling system (the V8 generates a lot of heat), and the brakes (which should have been upgraded to cope with the power). Ensure the V8 is properly registered on the V5C logbook.
Market Values and Investment Potential
The UK market for MGB GTs is currently fascinating. Prices have risen, but they haven’t skyrocketed like E-Types or early 911s, keeping them attainable.
- Project Cars (£1,500 – £3,000): These will have rust. They might run, but they won’t stop or steer well. Only buy at this level if you can weld. Paying a professional to restore a £2,000 rotten GT will cost you £15,000, leaving you with a car worth £8,000.
- Usable Daily Drivers (£5,000 – £8,000): This is the sweet spot for many. These cars will have an MOT (even if exempt, a voluntary MOT is a good sign), solid sills, and paint that looks good from 10 feet away. They might have a few bubbles and a tear in the seat, but they can be enjoyed immediately. Rubber bumper models dominate the lower end of this bracket.
- Excellent Examples (£9,000 – £14,000): Here you expect gleaming chrome, overdrive, perfect shut lines, and a history file thicker than a phone book. These cars should need nothing.
- Concours / Factory V8s (£20,000+): The very best restored early cars or genuine factory V8s occupy this territory.
Living with the MG BGT
One of the strongest arguments for buying an MGB GT is the support network. The MG Owners’ Club (MGOC) and the MG Car Club are massive organisations in the UK. They offer insurance schemes, technical advice, and social events.
Parts availability is phenomenal. You can practically build a brand new MGB GT from a catalogue. Companies like Moss Europe and MGOC Spares stock everything from washers to complete heritage body shells. This keeps running costs incredibly low compared to other classics. You don’t need to scour eBay for rare parts; you just order them online for next-day delivery.
Furthermore, most MGB GTs are now designated as “Historic Vehicles.” This means they are exempt from Road Tax (VED) and, crucially, are ULEZ (Ultra Low Emission Zone) exempt in London. This makes the MGB GT a surprisingly savvy choice for a city runabout, provided you have somewhere dry to park it.
Final Thoughts for the Buyer
Searching for an MGB GT for sale is an exercise in patience and diligence. Do not buy the first shiny red one you see. The paint can hide a multitude of sins. Always prioritise structure over mechanicals. An engine can be rebuilt for a predictable cost; chasing rust through a monocoque is a bottomless pit.
Look for a car that has been used regularly. Garage queens often suffer from dried-out seals and seized brakes. A car with a few stone chips that has done 2,000 miles a year for the last five years is often a better bet than one that has sat under a dust sheet since 2015.
The MGB GT remains one of the most charismatic, practical, and enjoyable ways to experience classic British motoring. Whether you choose a chrome-bumpered beauty for Sunday pub lunches or a rubber-bumpered workhorse for the daily commute, the experience of looking down that long bonnet, listening to the rasp of the exhaust, and shifting through the gears is pure joy. Happy hunting.
